About Me

I guess i should introduce myself somewhat.  My name is Andrew and i live in the southern suburbs of the Adelaide metro area in South Australia.  I was born and raised in this area too so much of my family live around me.  I am 28 years old, married and have two beautiful children – a 4 year old girl and a 1 year old boy.

I spend most of my days as an IT Network engineer so i guess you could call me a bit of a computer nerd but i try not to fall into this stereotypical category. I regulary administer Linux and Windows servers as well as general desktop support in my day job but i also do ad-hoc contract work for a few other companies. When i’m not playing with/fixing PC’s or servers i enjoy playing with RC stuff.  I have a Modded T-Maxx monster truck, the Ryobi boat and also a Honey Bee King II electric helicopter.  They are all awesome fun but each have thier own place – i.e the heli needs almost totally calm conditions to fly and no rain but the maxx can be driven in winter no problems.  It’s a good balance so that there is always something to play with…

Other than RC I love making things.  Those that know me well know that i try to make everything.  I hate buying things that i can make myself.  I have an equipped shed with some very handy tools, the most recent being a metal lathe.  I could not have made the boat without it, it is such a handy tool.

I’m also very electronically minded, it’s another area of interest for me.  Something i really wish that i persued from school.  It was my intention to do so but the computer thing sorta fell on my lap and i grasped it well so that took over from the electronics.  I still dabble in electronics regularly from advanced auto electrics (retrofitting EFI on a few cars, alarms and wild stereos) to circuit board building, chipping consoles and much more. 

One of my projects was a CNC mill (basically a computer controlled router).  This was successful and awesome to see working.  It took me about 6 months to build.  After a little while of work with it, i came to the conclusion that although it was awesome to have, just trying to do simple things with it was way too time consuming and i ended up selling it (for a nice profit too).  Before i sold it tho it did allow me to make things like an extended chassis for my Maxx to be able to fit a big block engine and a few other things.  Maybe one day i will make another (bigger) one but not any time soon. Building the CNC machine also taught me more skills and forced me to learn how to use autocad.  Something that i find very handy now.

So that’s a bit about me….

26 Responses to “About Me”

  1. I have found a PCboard with your URL on it and I wondered if you were behind this project?
    RFID Car Immobilser using a pic 12F629, as I’m trying to learn how to program I was hopeing that this was yours!!

    thanks
    Alan,
    Toronto Ontario, Canada

  2. Andrew says:

    Yes, that is my instructable.

  3. Leitzner says:

    Hi my dear friend, i had see your post in http://www.gpspassion.com/forumsen/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=108384&whichpage=83 about the gps tracker tk102/101, and i want to know if you have all the imei commands that i can send to the tracker to get information or data, if you can help i will apreciate that, thanks and sorry about my bad english im from venezuela.

  4. Andrew says:

    Sure, i’ll drop you an email

  5. Juergen says:

    Hi Andrew,
    I´m working on some software in php for the TK102-2 tracker. I adopted your “tracker.txt” to suit my needs. Most of my changes aren´t of any importance to you. However I changed the way the socket is being read. Your version doesn´t cope with the “readsd” command which triggers the tracker to spit out any position information held on the SD Card in a “line-by-line” manner.
    The way your script reads the socket those lines will be cut after 2048 bytes and you loose one line. I changed reading of the socket to:

    while (($rec = socket_read($socket, 512, PHP_NORMAL_READ)) !== 0){

    This will read complete lines – one after the other and nothing gets lost.Maybe this is of interest to you.

    BTW: could you drop me a copy of the imei commands that Mr Leitzner from the post above requested?

    Thanks a lot!

  6. Andrew says:

    Thanks for the info. Mine does not have SD card so yes, the change is a little irrelevant to me but it’d be great if it did. I find that mine tends to fail after about a day in GPRS mode.

  7. David Kirby says:

    Hi Andrew
    I just love your H pattern shifter. is there any way I can Buy the plans from you so I could make one up. I live in Sydney Australia and use a G25 at the moment with rfactor, Im working on building a set of peddles from Todds designs similar to yours
    David

  8. Andrew says:

    Hi David, thanks for the comments. I have a 3d autocad drawing of the shifter if you would like. That shows most of the construction. It does not show the switching mechanism but that is not overly complicated. It’s just a matter of making up your own ‘H’ plate for the shaft to move through at the bottom and mounting the switches on it. More than happy to supply any detail you need to help you construct it yourself.

  9. David Kirby says:

    Hi Andrew thanks for the reply, the autocad drawing would be fantastic I can get it printed to be able to make one up. I can work out the switching part The email address I gave is my home email and can be used for contact

  10. David says:

    Hi Andrew thanks for the reply
    The 3d Auto cad drawing would be fantastic i can get it drawn up to be able to construct one I can sort out the electronics myself please use my email adress for contact.
    thans David

  11. Andrew says:

    Email sent.

  12. Erik says:

    Hello Andrew, great work on the sim!

    I finally decided to swap out the potentiometer on the brake with a load cell. I have some parts here, but not being to electrically inclined I’m wondering if I have the correct stuff. I know the TI INA122PA is correct, but for the other parts I’m not so sure. The capacitor in question is a 50volt 0.22uF 10%, and the resistor in question is 20watt 400ohm 5%. I appreciate you putting this information out there and look forward to your response.

  13. Andrew says:

    Sorry for the late reply – The caps and resistor are just small ones. As long as the caps are rated above 5v you should not have a problem. As for the resistor – a standard 1/4w is plenty (20 watt???!!!)

  14. Andrew says:

    If you can tell me what you want more pics of, im happy to snap some more.

  15. Mike says:

    Hello Andrew,

    Great blog, you’re quite the handy hobby dude :). I’m going to purchase Todd’s diy guide to building pedals. I really like your use of profile aluminium. Would you have any more detailed pics? If you could email them to me I would really appreciate it. It would match the cockpit I built – http://lmrv12.smugmug.com/Sports/sim/2536464_23MGP . Thansk

    -mike

  16. Mike says:

    Andrew,

    Shots from all angles would be nice top, sides…etc. – I’d like to see what parts you used since I can source them here from 8020 Inc. Do you also have the dimensions ( lengths ) of the parts used?

    Hope you and your family are safe from the flooding.

    thanks

    -mike

  17. Riley says:

    Hey, I am building a project exactly like yours. I too am having problems sourcing/building a shaft for the prop. Also, where did you get the plans for the hull? PLEASE drop me an email!

  18. Andrew says:

    The flex is just from the trimmer, the ferrule I made on my lathe and the shaft is just normal 1/4″ as rod with a 6mm metric thread on the end. Very basic construction using shaft lock to hold the 3 parts together. If you need help, let me know. I still have the original dxfs for the hull if you want them.

  19. Rich says:

    Andrew, you are a huge inspiration of mine. I am also a tinkerer and love building stuff that you can’t buy. What led me to your site was the Ryobi boat. I am in the middle of building a Ryobi powered boogie board airboat as a winter project with my two boys. I want more than just your “typical” Ryobi though, -I have already checked port timing/duration and have played with Javapipe, -I have a few ideas I was wondering if you could help me with? My exhaust port duration is 152 degrees, and I am wondering if I should increase that to around 170 degrees? Also, what diameter venturi caburetor is that? Your Ryobi is HANDS DOWN the best running Ryobi I have ever seen, -spectacular!! I would like to shoot for around 8500-9000 RPM. Did you measure EGT’s for Javapipe, -or just guess?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks in advance,
    Rich. (Portland Oregon USA)

  20. Jan Morgos says:

    hallo. i am interrested in your DIY USB Joystick http://www.hux.net.au/?tag=diy-usb-joystick

    i am student of electricity from slovakia, i need to built some like your USB joystick to my school project. in your project is used ATmega 8 MCU if i see good. Is your Mjoy8 project aviable to download? how i can get it? Or is not free?

    thanks

  21. Andrew says:

    Mjoy is free however the developer of it has shut down his site. I have copied the version i used to this site for you to download. http://hux.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mjoy_v1.1.zip – This is the ‘MadDog’ layout. There is another one but it is not compatible with the board i have on the site here. Good luck!

  22. Andrew says:

    Hi Rich, Sorry for the late reply but thanks for the comments.

    My Ryobi has no port modding whatsoever. It is totally stock. The main differences are:
    * Modified reed stop – Make the gap between the reed and the stop about 1/8″ or ~3mm. Stock it is much less than that.
    * Walbro WT-257 Carb – A cheap 1/2″ carb that easily improves performance by a hell of a lot
    * The tuned pipe – This was a ‘wing it and see’ type build. I very much doubt it is perfect for the engine but I knew it was going to be better than the stock can muffler. I just pumped the engine stats into the javapipe app and went with it. Even as it is, my header pipe is the wrong diameter/length but it was ‘close enough’.
    * Lightened/balanced flywheel – The flywheel has been turned down to about 1/2 the thickness to stock. Basically, you can safely skim down to the ‘blocks’ where the magnets are but i would not go any further than that. Then balance it up.

    My engine pulls around 11-12,000 RPM. I would NOT reccomend this speed to the Gen1 Ryobi engines as thier con-rod will not handle it. If you can get your hands on a newer gen engine with 2 piston rings, better ports, conrod and bearings then i would highly reccomend it. They are much better in design and will last longer. That being said, in an air boat you can control the RPMs much better by prop choice. My boat has the biggest prop i could get and it still could probably do with being bigger.

    My carb also has a velocity stack installed but i don’t think that makes much difference.

    Another note – If you do find a gen 2 engine, make sure you use the coil from the gen 1 as if you have read my posts, you will know there is something funky with the gen 2 coil that significantly rev-limited my engine to probably only 5-6,000 RPM.

    I’d love to see some pics/vid once you get it going!

  23. Rich Howard says:

    Andrew, thanks so much for the reply! I know exactly what you mean regarding the pipe design being a roll of the dice. I am running the small 7.94mm carb right now with open exhaust, a bent reed stopper, and slightly increased crankcase compression ratio (thin backplate gasket). I also made a slightly thinner cylinder base gasket (to increase comp ratio a little), -and am running 100LL aviation fuel with semi-synthetic at 50:1. The engine will pull the Zinger 18×6 prop at a consistent 6700 RPM with open exhaust. My engine has the two ring piston, so I’m not sure about which style con-rod it has. My cylinder has those pesky “decompression slots” at the top of the transfer ports, so I found a new-old-stock cylinder that does not have those. I have yet to do any testing with the jug with no decomp slots, but that is next! Yes, I need to get some videos up soon! Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. Rich.

  24. Jaron says:

    Hi Andrew,

    Have you had any experience programming the eeprom chip to work as a joystick controller with windows? if so please shoot me an email.

    cheers

    Jaron

  25. Andrew says:

    The mjoy board has provision for a programming interface. I am not sure what you mean.

  26. Andrew says:

    Yep, ditch that Carb for a start. It is way to restrictive. Then get even a can muffler on it. Never run a 2 stroke like that, you will kill it very quick. Sounds like you are on the right path. I’d love to see pics/video when you get it going. I also suggest upping your oil content. Although the container might say up to 50:1 I would not reccomend it. 25-30:1 is going to make the engine last longer at those revs. Do some research on the octane rating and how it applies to these engines too. You will find that there is generally less power on higher octane fuels because they burn too slow for such small engines with static engine timing.

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